Hello, everyone. It has been a very long time since you have seen me. I honestly can’t get my act together. Instead of blogging for you, I have been spending my days talking about dreams, food, science, politics and more politics. I left off in Greece, the first time we went there, I promised to post about Mount Olympus soon afterwards, but as time passes, I remember less and less about the hike. I suppose I haven’t been as diligent as I should. Never the less, let’s start with our ascent of Mount Olympus.

We left Athens late in the day, prepared to drive into darkness in a few hours time. We passed by the ocean on the drive and glimpsed many mountains. Upon our arrival at the base of Mount Olympus, we made the decision to go even further up the steep slope to the parking lot at the start of the hiking trail. As we drove, the mist crept onto the road and enveloped us so that we could not see more than 15 feet ahead. I was especially frightened because I knew that there was a steep drop not far from my window. We eventually pulled over and did our usual things: cooking spaghetti for dinner, talking, making our beds. It was a very cozy evening because we knew that we would be doing something spectacular the next morning.

The next day, we woke up to discover that some wild boar hunters needed us to move our car because we had unknowingly parked ourselves in front of a water source. They were very friendly about it so we felt obligated to get ready quickly. We started our car and continued the drive. The view was splendid but we arrived in the parking lot very quickly.
I felt quite underprepared. It was obvious that many of the hikers had professional gear and were experienced. We hung out preparing and playing with the kitten in the parking lot for a good half hour before we started hiking. I was surprised at the ease. As I mentioned earlier I was a bit intimidated by all of the “professionals”. The whole hike is beautiful. I went in October and the trees were turning all sorts of amazing colors. We stopped to rest many times especially because I was carrying a stuffed 45 liter pack which was completely unnecessary. Luckily we reached 1/3 of the way very quickly.

The walk reminded me of home because the forest floor was carpeted in orange leaves and the trees were reminiscent of Oregon. The fog rolled into the valley and it was so nice and cool. This made the whole trip so enjoyable and I will remember it forever.

Mount Olympus can be done in one day or two, depending on whether you want to summit or not. We decided to summit and stay at the refuge near the tree line. I can remember being very tired after hours of walking and wondering, “When are we going to reach the 2/3 mark?” Fortunately, we were a ten minute walk from the refuge and we had missed the mark! On our short way up we saw some adorable donkeys descending the mountain.

The refuge was very nice and the food was better than I had expected. It happened to be a pretty busy time of year so there were plenty of people to talk to. The only downside was the temperature. At night, it drops so low that you have to have three blankets over you while you are sleeping. And there is no heating system.

I woke up the next morning with the pleasure of watching the sun rise. It was angelic, but there was no time to waste. We ate our breakfast quickly, put on our coats (which we of course shed quickly) and hit the trail. Instead of hiking the highest summit, we did the more common one which is only 18m lower. The morning sun made the view look even more expansive and ever-lasting, so as you can imagine I enjoyed it very much. Ae continued hiking for a while until we hit the monotonous section which even I had to admit (for lack of a better word and to put it in modern terms) sucked. It was a loose, steep slope in the middle of a dry, rocky valley that seemed to persist onward infinitely. When I made it to the top, the view was incredibly pristine and gorgeous. The sky was the bluest I had ever seen it. In front of me I saw the highest peak, to the left was the view of the ocean and the Greek islands far off in the distance. My family and I sat up there for a while enjoying the sights before heading down the mountain.

The next day, we left Greece. It took us the whole day to get our act together so our goal of reaching Dubrovnik that night seemed impossible. As I was standing in the parking lot of the Macedonian border patrol I realized that we were about to enter a new phase of the trip! We were going to travel the Balkan States. This was very appealing to me because this would be my first chance to see developing countries. I had only been to stable, relatively Western countries before. Then was the chance to finally venture East.

Macedonia is certainly one country I am longing to explore. On our way to Dubrovnik, I saw so much absolute pulchritude through the car window. We zipped past grand mountains, quaint villages, and even the world’s largest cross. There is something so alluring about Macedonia. Perhaps it’s the exciting mountains that may never have been explored, or maybe it’s simply the fact that everything is so mild and untouched.

As the late afternoon set in, we arrived at a grey and solemn looking border patrol station. This was the border to Kosovo. As the officer looked at our passports, I could see that he had lived through a lot of hard times in his country, yet he still smiled. I respect him deeply for that. As soon as we entered Kosovo, a slightly depressing feeling came upon me. “What would it be like to live here?” I thought. It is such an odd country that has been through a lot of suffering and poverty. The grey skies perfectly reflect the feeling I get from the place.

We drove on into the night, passing sections of farmland and business. As you drive by, you can see luxury stores and glass hotels totally out of place on the side of the road. This is one of the most bizarre things about the country.

As we drove, we watched the sun disappear behind the mountains far from the highway. We passed through different strange towns and stopped at a few even stranger restaurants through the night. The roads were quite awful and the lanes were sometimes indistinguishable so naturally I was a little worried. Late that night while Raisa and I were asleep, we pulled of the frankly dangerous highway and into a small town alive with people and lights. The first glance that I got of it was very nice.

We pulled up to the hotel and unloaded our bags. Our room, fortunately, was modern with nice lights and beds.

At first I started to realize that I was awake and not dreaming. I heard a strange music playing which I thought was the hotel speakers. As I continued to gain consciousness, I became aware that the music was coming from outside the building yet not far away. It was very loud, but by no means to an uncomfortable degree. It was haunting and beautiful, so foreign to me. I began to hear someone speaking among the voices in song and a jolt of fear hit me. Was a mob of protesters assembling outside the hotel?! I knew by then as a traveler that protesters were a very bad sign and certainly something to be avoided. Then I heard Mom whisper, “Listen, girls, do you hear that? It’s the Mosque across the street. They are performing early morning prayer.” After I received this information I felt very inexperienced. I had never even seen a mosque before, let alone heard the prayer! Now my fear was totally gone and interest replaced it. I fell back asleep listening to the greatness of the music.

I woke in the morning with light floating through the windows despite the grey, rainy sky. We had an interesting breakfast and explored the town. As I walked outside into the rain, I spotted the mosque that we had heard in that morning. I remembered seeing a few buildings while driving on the highway that looked similar. As we whisked past a domed building with spires, I said, “Mom, that looks like a mini-Hagia Sofia! Is it a mosque?” My mother confirmed that it was in fact a mosque, and as a result I got very excited.
We walked around some shops that day, overjoyed that we accidentally stumbled upon the cultural capitol of Kosovo. The view of the city from the top of the hill was very beautiful, and soon after we splashed our way down to the heart of the city, where an unfortunately polluted river runs. As we walked along the sidewalk, Dad spotted a man selling roasted chestnuts. He made a beeline for his stand, purchasing a nice-sized heap. At first, I was uninterested in trying them because I had previously hated chestnuts and refused to consume them for years. I eventually decided to try one and, of course, it was delicious. Dad told me the story of his trip to Europe as a small child. He ate roasted chestnuts every day and used them to warm his hands in the winter. It’s a great tradition.
We stopped at out hotel, got some croissants and left after finishing our walk. As soon as we got out of town, me being the hungry teenager did the daring act of trying my croissant. Bad move. Kosovaars simply do not know how to make a croissant! They didn’t even bother using butter!!! My oh my.

We left Kosovo pretty quickly and headed into Albania. I have been interested in Albania for a while mainly because of it’s unique history, namely the fact that it was the first declared Atheist State. It was also one of the weirdest communist countries because despite its size and location, aligned itself with China. I do not by any means or by any stretch of the imagination support Communism, or outlawing religion like Albania did. I simply find it fascinating how their bizarre government came to be and what happened to the people as a result of it. It’s simply a unique story.

As soon as we entered Albania, my eyes nearly popped out of my skull. It was so gorgeous. The mountains absolutely towered above the huts on the roadside, and the mist was like the ocean, swallowing everything in its path. Nearly all surfaces were covered in something green wether it be trees, moss, grass etc. It was truly amazing. We went on driving for nearly an hour before we hit the lowlands and the odd cities again, much like Kosovo. We spent another hour driving on a bumpy, muddy road in a very rural section of the North. It was eye-opening to see what life is like for many Albanians: difficult, rural, and poor.
Our rule for officially going to a country is stepping off your mode of transportation. We approached a small café on the edge of the border of Montenegro, and could not resist the temptation to get out. We sat outside and sipped peach ice tea while listening to the Albanian language being spoken by some natives. We left soon after, which was quite disappointing. I wish so very badly to go back soon.

I can confidently say that Montenegro is extremely different from some of the other Balkan countries. The infrastructure is different and even the landscape is very contrasting. It was a nice country to drive through with many pretty beachside houses and seafood restaurants.

We finally reached Dubrovnik before dark and pulled into a nice camping ground where we cleaned ourselves up before dinner. We went into town later and ate at a very nice modern restaurant that Dad found via the internet. Over the next few days we visited some of the touristic spots. We went to the docks and a few churches. It was very nice.

The next place we went in Croatia was Rijeka. Dubrovnik was a classic, but Rijeka really hit my heart and it had some real importance to me. Some of my father’s best childhood moments were enjoyed there back in the 70’s. It is an absolutely stunning city with loads of character. The buildings are majestic with gorgeous carvings that shape the aura of the city.

Our first stop was the Saturday Market, which was full of people, young and old, selling their products. The bright vegetables stood out against the subtle colors of the buildings, which were surely beautiful on their own. We entered the fish market and took some photos for Grandma. She remembers the time she spent there with her family and we wanted to show her how it’s doing today. One of Dad’s favorite pastries is Borek, which basically contains delicious cheese between thin sheets of dough. I don’t know what types of cheese are in Borek, but apparently they are unattainable in the United States. I personally loved the Borek that we got in Croatia. It was thick and filling and had a very delicious flavor to it.

As we usually do, we drove back to the place that Dad and his family stayed when he was little. He remembered the exact spot as he always does. It makes me hopeful that I, too will be able to reach some of the meaningful spots later in my life. We took a dip in the ocean later and walked up to eat some traditional seafood.

We sadly had to leave later that day. I really felt a connection to Rijeka. It was so sweet and calm and I think I could live there someday. But we had to move on to Venice. The drive was full of the beautiful Croatian seaside, but what was even better was Slovenia. It is probably one of the most amazing countries I have been to, so serene and gorgeous. The trees were turning and the landscape was truly flawless. There are so many countries I am longing to go back to now, and I am realizing that one year is nowhere near enough to see even a tiny fraction of the world.

We arrived in Venice in the evening. We pulled into the campsite and set up our van. I was very excited because they had a pool! Of course we went swimming and came back, cold in the dark to our van where we listened to Adele’s single, Hello (which I am unfortunately disappointed with) are dinner, and went to bed.

We woke up the next morning, did our usual routine, and headed out to the bus stop. I am embarrassed to say that before we approached Venice on the bus, I had no idea it wasn’t on the mainland. I RARELY am in this state of misinformation, especially about geography. We disembarked from the bus and stood out in the sunlight that was shining so brightly down upon us. I checked to make sure I still had my camera attached to my wrist.

We spent most of our day walking around the city in the general direction of St. Mark’s Cathedral. I definitely underestimated Venice. I had no idea it was so picturesque and my camera was almost never turned off or put away.* When we finally reached St. Mark’s Cathedral, we stood in line for quite a reasonable amount of time and when we

entered, it was marvelous. The ceiling was beautifully decorated and it was in every way at the pinnacle of architectural perfection, at least as far as aesthetic goes. We walked quietly across the length of the building, and joined the back of the line to see the jewels. They, too were magnificent, plastered upon a golden plate engraved with all sorts of pictures. I know this sounds bad, but we love to joke about how we would steal the Mona Lisa or The Birth of Venus if we were art thieves, (obviously we are not so don’t worry) and these jewels were no exception. I can’t remember our silly plan, but I can assure you it was good.

We continued walking through the city, contemplating whether we should pay for a Gondola ride or not. The very best part of the day was getting Gelato at a tiny shop on a narrow, winding street. I think that there is no possible way to wrong with gelato, but when it’s made in Italy, it’s the best. At the end of the day, we decided not to take a Gondola ride because it was so expensive and the mosquitoes would be out. Instead, we had some pasta at a restaurant near the bus station.

As our quick day in Venice came to an end, we boarded the bus bound for our camping site. We walked on the gravel road to the back fence and went inside the premises. Another tired evening after a long day of travel and enjoyment.

The next day, we woke up as quickly as possible, our end destination being Prague with a quick stop in Vienna. So we all hopped in the car again like we had done so many times before and braced ourselves for another day of hard driving. One thing I would love to convey is my absolute adoration for the Austrian countryside. My day was mostly made up of sleeping and gazing in awe at the picturesque, rolling hills. The ride was smooth in the perfect Mercedes Benz van, which rolled upon smooth, Austrian highways. I think if there is a true number 1 place to go back to it would be there for me.

So as the night approached, we arrived in Vienna. This is another place that my dad stayed when he was a child. The street of the apartment he and his family inhabited was ironically called Bräunerstraße. We aimed to take a quick, self-guided driving tour around the city, but as it was dinner time, we decided to stop and eat at a beautiful, traditional restaurant nearby. Since I was feeling quite sick, I decided not to order anything, but when the food came, I decided I had to have some. After eating some heart-warming Austrian food, I instantly felt better. We also learned an interesting fact about the place. The building was formerly a stable, but now is a restaurant.

When we left, I noticed the street sign, which said: Bräunerstaße. We were on the same street! Then I realized that the restaurant was the stables which Dad had described, and I recognized the big doors leading to an apartment that he had told me of! By accident we found the street! I got Dad to pose in front of the big, steel doors so we could send the photo to Grandma and Grandpa.

Later that night, we arrived in Prague. I can’t remember much as a result of my state of sleepiness. Nearly the only thing I can recall is thinking, “This is our hotel? It’s so plastic and colorful.”

We all woke up the next day, prepared to take a “free” walking tour of Prague. We took bumpy, but efficient public transportation into the center of the city. The time of year ensured that the weather was chilly, but within reason. We needed breakfast, so we ate at a nearby crêpe shop. I was missing home so I got a cinnamon apple crêpe. It was so, so delicious.

At this point, we realized we were in a hurry so we dashed across the Charles Bridge to meet the tour. At first, we couldn’t find them, but they arrived shortly after we got to the other side. We met three young ladies, two from Slovakia, and one from Romania. Fortunately, they were on the same tour as us, so we got to have some interesting conversations. The tour was nice, and I definitely got to see a lot of Prague. I have to say, it’s absolutely beautiful. Later, we walked around near the gardens and parks up on the hill. The fall colors were becoming clear and very beautiful. Up there, you can see the whole of the peaceful city, with bright rooftops and the gorgeous river.

The next day, we went into town to take another tour of Prague. I thought it was nice as well. I learned a lot about the architecture of the city and why it is so unique. This is mostly because some buildings contain up to four distinct styles, often from different periods. We even got to see the famous clock!

After our tour was over, we mostly walked around and stared at some of the buildings, which was actually very fun. I had a strange kind of dessert that is made by sticking dough around a stick and baking it over a fire. For the last, and most important touch, they add sugar to the outside and Nutella to the inside. You can find these all over Prague.
As we were walking through the streets, a man came up to us in attempt to sell us tickets to a Vivaldi concert. We thought it sounded fantastic, but when we left, so many more people approached us selling a similar thing, we figured we should be smart about which one to choose. In the end, it turned out to be the right one because the concert hall was absolutely magnificent, they were so professional, and the raw quality of the music was astounding. I thoroughly enjoyed the concert and I thought it was fabulous!

This is where our journey ends in Prague. The next morning we woke up extremely early to drive back to Germany (which is where we rented our camper van). All I can remember is waking up as we were driving down the highway before sunrise. The ground was frosty and mist was swirling around the edges of the road.

We returned the car in Düsseldorf later that morning and took a train to Amsterdam. What we did there is not important, so I will sum it up for you now. We got our vaccinations, and went to an amazing restaurant called Ctaste. All the waiters and waitresses are blind or visually impaired, and they lead you into a completely pitch-black room where you dine. It is a very cool experience because you have to eat and function in the dark, much like being blind. That includes drinking and pouring water as well as not dropping food on yourself. From personal experience, that is pretty much impossible. Before you eat, you can choose from a vague menu. For example, you could choose that you want a meat dish or fish, but that is it. We all ended up taking the daring order which is Chef’s choice. While we were “blind” it was great fun to guess the layout of the room or at least the searing arrangements by the sounds of peoples’ voices. But in the end, the desert was by far the best thing I have ever tasted in my life. It included lemon ice cream with lemon cheesecake and a stroopwaffle sprinkled with pop rocks. There were so many more amazing flavors, but unfortunately I cannot remember them all. After we were finished, we got to see if our guesses about our food were correct or not.

The next day, we flew back to Athens. In the next post, I will tell you about our travels on a quaint Greek Island called Serifos and the mainland of Turkey and Iran. Thank you.

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